The streets of Baku, Azerbaijan's capital, provide one of the biggest challenges in Formula 1. The Baku Street Circuit features some of the fastest straights in F1 as well as some tricky corners and even the narrowest section on the calendar.
You therefore need a car you can trust when the going gets tough. In particular, you need a good F1 24 Azerbaijan setup, updated for the new handling patch.
F1 24 Azerbaijan Setup
Baku joined the F1 calendar in 2016 as the host of the European Grand Prix, holding a dedicated Azerbaijan GP from the following year. Baku is a proper street circuit and as such, is one of the toughest challenges in Formula 1 and the F1 24 game.
The majority of a lap of Baku is slow-speed, tight corners. However, Baku is also known for its incredible run from Turn 16 to Turn 1, a might 2.2km of pure speed.
Then there's the castle section. Barely wide enough for an F1 car to fit through, this infamous section of track is ready to snatch up any car not slowed in time.
F1 24's handling was criticized by F1 Esports drivers and seasoned content creators upon release. The game has since been patched, with this setup best suited to the game post-patch.
Check out the full F1 24 Azerbaijan setup at the bottom of this article, or read the setup summary below:
Aerodynamics
- Front wing: 35
- Rear wing: 20
Transmission
- Differential adjustment on throttle: 45%
- Differential adjustment off throttle: 50%
- Engine braking: 100%
Suspension geometry
- Front camber: -3.50
- Rear camber: -2.2
- Front toe-out: 0.25
- Rear toe-in: 0.25
Suspension
- Front suspension: 41
- Rear suspension: 5
- Front anti-roll bar: 18
- Rear anti-roll bar: 8
- Front ride height: 25
- Rear ride height: 55
Brakes
- Brake pressure: 95%
- Front brake bias: 55%
Tyres
- Front right tyre pressure: 29.5 psi
- Front left tyre pressure: 29.5 psi
- Rear right tyre pressure: 26.5 psi
- Rear left tyre pressure: 26.5 psi
Aerodynamics
Baku needs a car that's slippery but with bite in the corners.
35 Front Wing Aero gives you very responsive steering in the corners, while 20 Rear Wing Aero keeps the car planted and without producing too much drag on the main straight.
Transmission
Transmission has altered for F1 24, as you can now set the Engine Braking for your car. Engine Braking sets how quickly the car slows down when off-throttle.
For Baku, as at most circuits in F1 24, you'll need to go for 100% Engine Braking.
As for the Differential, values of 45% on-throttle and 50% off-throttle settings are ideal.
This means that the car has a great balance of grip and stability when both on and off the accelerator.
Suspension Geometry
Suspension Geometry sets how much of the wheels are making contact with the road. This is done by setting the Camber and Toe angles of the wheels.
The lower the angles, the more grip, but this also means high tyre wear.
Your Camber angles will need to be geared towards tyre life, with -3.50 on the front and -2.20 on the rear.
Your Toe angles, though, have to be as low as possible, with the front and rear set to 0.00.
Suspension
Suspension is the most complex area of the car set up. Starting with the springs, the Front Suspension has to be as stiff as possible for responsiveness at 41.
The Rear Suspension, though, has to be much softer to help absorb the bumps caused by the kerbs at 5.
The Anti-Roll Bar needs to be as firm as possible on the front for maximum responsiveness, but looser on the rear to ride curbs. 18-8 is best here.
The Ride Height needs to be on the lower side, as this is a relatively flat circuit outside of the hilly castle section, 25-55.
Brakes
The Turn 1 and Turn 3 braking zones are two of the longest on the calendar, so strong brakes are a must here.
95% Brake Pressure is the highest you can have without causing regular lock-ups.
When it comes to the Brake Bias, this should be set 55% to the front, as this provides the perfect balance between the front and rear axles.
Tyres
Maximizing the tyre pressures are the best option in F1 24. This will increase performance without sacrificing too much tyre life.
Setting 29.5 psi on the front and 26.5 psi on the rear will stop your rubber exploding on the main straight.
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