There's just something about MotoGP 21 that keeps us coming back for more. The game has impressed us on a number of levels and to see exactly why, check out our full review of Milestone's latest great title.
Whether you go with "full or official calendar", the Austrian Grand Prix will be the eleventh grand prix of the your first season. As the Finnish Grand Prix has been cancelled for 2021, there will now be two Grands Prix held in Austria, with the second being titled as the "Styrian Grand Prix".
Austria returned to the MotoGP calendar in 2016 after almost 20 years away. The Red Bull Ring has been a great venue to watch the fastest motorcycles in the world tear around it ever since. Here's our ultimate setup guide for the RB Ring!
Austria doesn't have too many harsh traction zones around its layout but you need tyre life for the high-speed corners which end the lap. A soft on the front will likely see you understeering into the gravel traps towards the end of the race.
Aside from the pre-load value, you front suspension needs to be set to around the default value of 4 for a good compromise. The pre-load should be down at 1 though to allow for better leaning of the bike and added stability.
The rear of the bike's suspension should be similar to the front, with the exception of the spring hardness. The spring needs to be as soft as possible (0) for a smoother ride, which will help hugely through the last two corners of the lap.
The vehicle geometry needs to be aggressively configured towards responsiveness rather than stability. All of the values aside from the steering plate position (3) have to be at their lowest value of 0. If you're struggling to stay on the bike though or are using too many curbs, turn these values up slightly.
The Austrian GP is one of the fastest on the calendar in terms of average speed. The gears have to reflect this, with them being higher than the defaults. The only exception to this rule is the first gear, as you'll need good acceleration out of Turns 1, 2 and 3.
The slipper clutch is best at 4 to strike an optimum balance between turn-in and stability.
The long braking zones into Turns 1-3 necessitate good brakes around the Red Bull Ring. 340 mm high mass on the front and 220 mm on the rear are best to inspire confidence in the stopping power of your ride.
You'll need to make use of the electronic aids around the Red Bull Ring thanks to its sharp changes in elevation. Traction control has to be up at 4 to help smooth your corner exits, with the anti-wheelie aid at 3 to keep the rear wheel planted.
Lastly, the engine braking should be up at 4 to help shave speed off of your ride through the long corners in the middle of the lap.
Power mapping is best at 3 for a flying lap, but you’ll need to turn this around during some points in the race.
All of these can be adjusted out on track using the HUD in the bottom-right of the screen.