MotoGP 21: Spanish Grand Prix setup guide – Jerez guide, suspension, brakes & more
Spain has four Motorcycle GP’s on the calendar and this is the first and arguably most challenging.
When it comes to great motorcycle games, you need head no further than MotoGP 21. We were very impressed when we got our hands on it earlier this month, check out our full review to see exactly why. For more tips and tricks for newbies, go over to our beginner’s guide.
Whether you go with “full or official calendar”, the Spanish Grand Prix will be the fourth race you compete in. Spain are MotoGP mad, so much so, that this is the first of four Motorcycle Grands Prix on the calendar.
Jerez has hosted this race since the 1980s and is a real test of both skill and bravery. Here’s our guide to the best setup at Jerez in MotoGP 21!
Jerez’s rough surface and abundance of fast corners makes hard rubber on both the front and rear axles a must. A medium on either end of the bike will seriously struggle to make the end of the race.
Jerez has a lot of elevation changes and quick-fire corners which require a more stable bike. However, you’ll also need the bike to be responsive to deal with those sharp direction changes. Front pre-load should be low at 2 to help responsiveness and turn-in.
The front spring hardness should be near default at 5, with the front swingarm compression and extension at 6 and 7, respectively. Finally on the front, the oil quantity needs to be middle of the road at 4.
On the rear, values need to also be a mix to be quick. 3 for rear spring hardness and rear pre-load is optimum. Swingarm connector needs to be default at 4. Lastly, the single shock absorber compression and extension are best on the high side at 6 and 7, respectively.
Steering head inclination has to be low to help turn-in, we found 2 to be best. The same goes for the trail, 2 is optimum. The steering plate position is best at 3, with the rear swingarm length on the high side at 5 to help stability.
The gears are best being left at default as Jerez rewards good, consistent acceleration.
The final ratio needs to be high though to cover yourself, the last thing you want here is to rev out and hit top speed too early. The slipper clutch is best at 4 to strike a balance between turn-in and stability.
As usual, you’ll need the strongest brakes available in dry conditions at Jerez. Turn isn’t a particularly big braking zone, but there are many medium to long length ones around the back end of the circuit. To avoid overheating and a long brake pedal, you’ll need the best cooling anchors you can find.
It’s no exaggeration to say that the electronic aids available in MotoGP help a lot in Spain. There aren’t many big traction zones, so TC can be set to 3. 4 engine braking helps you lose speed when you need to round the long corners. 4 Anti-wheelie assist is needed to keep the bike stable, but you could go up to 5 if you’re getting regular stopies.
Power mapping is best at 3 for a flying lap, but you’ll need to turn this around during some points in the race.
All of these can be adjusted out on track using the HUD in the bottom-right of the screen.