Assetto Corsa Competizione setups are tricky things to master. With far more tweakable options than games like F1 2020 or Gran Turismo Sport that many players came from, it can be overwhelming to start with.
That's why we are here to help you out!
There are a few basic rules to follow when it comes to. The first is tyre pressures.
Ideal PSI for dry tyres sits around 27.5. Your PSI will fluctuate with tyre temps, but when they are that wonderful green colour you want them in a 27.3-27.7 PSI window.
Next is baselines. The default setup is a nice start, if slow, but the preset "aggressive" setup is a good starting point to begin tinkering from.
It can be prone to some snap oversteer but it will do things like lower your TC/ABS settings and give you a racier ride height. However, it's not something you can race on comfortably.
Finally, every setup is track and car specific. What works with the Porsche 911 will be totally wrong in the Bentley Continental!
This setup is specifically for Brands Hatch and the Lamborghini Huracan GT3 Evo (2019). It's also built for relatively short races, 20 minutes to an hour. If you are doing more endurance races then you'll want to tweak it more.
Let's get started.
The first page of the setup is all about tyres, and this is perhaps the most crucial of the lot.
We've tweaked the PSI so that each tyre is in that optimal window when warm. Sliding the car around through corners will quickly overheat the rubber, so make sure you aren't overdriving the car.
Track temperature will also dictate tyre pressure, and you'll need to adjust even session to session depending on the track temperature. This is especially crucial in endurance races as the wrong tyre pressures can really ruin your pace.
Electronics is simply traction control, ABS, and ECU mapping.
A degree of TC is very useful in these GT3 brutes, but really your own comfort level.
Even experienced drivers use some traction control and ABS in ACC, and higher levels of both can help save your tyres a bit too.
Fuel & Strategy
ACC won't automatically give you the right level of fuel for your session, so make sure to adjust it.
The game does give you a fuel per lap that you can use to make sure you've got just enough gas to reach the end. Usually it's over fueled, so if you are just jumping in for a short race make sure to take some gas out and save time!
Brakes also depend on your session length. Brake pads #1 are for qualifying & up to about 90 minute races. #2 are for 2-6 hour races, and #3 are for your 12-24 hour enduro races.
Brake pads #4 are for your late-race simulations when they are very worn. You don't want to be using them!
This is perhaps the most personalised part of the setup as it relates directly to understeer and oversteer.
To stiffen the suspension add N/m to the wheel rate, to loosen it lower N/m.
If you like an oversteery car you generally want a stiffer rear than front.
If you are getting too much throttle oversteer you can raise the preload differential.
Our setting is a good middle ground, but it depends on driving style how you should move some of these values. We don't recommend making massive changes to any values though, as every part of the setup works in harmony with the other. Move values one or two clicks rather than 5!
The dampers are far from the most important part of the setup, and are very tricky to get a feel for.
We've shifted the values down slightly, but this page is one you can usually leave alone.
Ride height is hugely important in ACC.
Not only do you need to worry about clearance on bumps or kerbs (not a problem at Brands Hatch).
A lower front creates more turn-in, but again at the price of crunching more kerbs.
If you feel you are loosing the rear off-throttle then you can drop the rear ride height a few clicks to help. It will create more understeer and stability.