The MotoGP British round takes place at the sensational Silverstone Circuit, but how do you get a good setup around here? You'll need to be quick through the high-speed corners and rapid down the straights in the UK.
Here's our setup guide for Silverstone in MotoGP 23!
MotoGP 23 Britain setup
Silverstone has been the home of the British Motorcycle GP since 2010. The Home of British Motorsport is one of the best circuits in the world, as it has some incredible high-speed corners.
This track is pretty flat, as it used to be an airforce base during the war. However, it's anything but easy, as corners like Copse, Maggots-Becketts-Chapel and Stowe are thrillers!
Starting with the tyres, we think that going with Hard tyres is best. Despite being in the UK, track temperatures can be very high. That combined with the high-speed assault course means you need to go with the most durable rubber available.
A Medium tyre on the front would mean that you need to tyre save going into the final laps of the race, so we don't recommend it.
Front pre-load needs to be low at 1 to allow for more consistent steering through the longer corners in Sokol. Oil quality should slightly higher at 3, with the front spring hardness up at 4.
The front fork compression is best at 4, but the extension of the fork needs to be lower at 2.
On the rear, the rear pre-load has to be down at 1 with the Swingarm connector around 3. Spring hardness should also be up at 5, with shock absorber compression down at 2 and the extension also at 4 to help the bike's overall grip.
For your Vehicle Geometry, the steering head inclination should be up at 1 to allow for more responsive steering.
The trail should be down at 1 but the steering plate needs to be up at 5. Lastly, the rear swingarm length needs to also be up at 5.
Your gears in the UK should be around the default values of 3. This gives a good compromise between acceleration and overall top speed.
The only exception to this is the final ratio, which is best up at 5. The long Hanger and Wellington Straights mean that you'll be hitting the rev limiter if you don't raise this.
The slipper clutch should be at 4, though, to help the bike's stability.
In Britain, there are two big braking zones at the end of the long straights. These alone means you need powerful brakes and there are more significant braking zones in other areas of the circuit as well.
A 340mm high mass brake on the front and a 220mm on the rear are the best options here.
As usual, electronic aids that are available to you in MotoGP definitely come in handy here. You'll need to turn all of them up quite high to keep your bike on the road. Traction Control can be at 3, though, as getting back on the throttle isn't usually difficult.
Engine Braking should be cranked up to 4 in order to shave speed around the long corners. Anti-wheelie only needs to be at 3, though, because the track is a flat one.
Power mapping is best at 3 for a flying lap, but you'll need to turn this around during some points in the race. This is to save the engine and fuel.
All of these can be adjusted out on track using the HUD in the bottom-right of the screen.
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