MotoGP's Germany round continues our European tour at the beginning and middle parts of the season, and you'll need a good setup to be fast for the MotoGP 23 German Grand Prix!
Sachsenring's twisty and slow corners makes it tough to set your bike up for. Never fear, though, we're here to help with our MotoGP 23 Germany setup guide!
MotoGP 23 Germany setup
The Sachsenring is one of MotoGP's oldest circuits, having hosted the East German Grand Prix in the 1980s and before. Located in the Saxon forests of Germany, this track has little to no run-off around most of its layout.
Passing into Turn 1 is usually the best way to overtake, as there aren't many other passing spots aside from the final corner.
Starting with the tyres, you'll need to opt for Mediums on both the front and the rear. This gives a good balance between performance and endurance.
You can go with a Hard on the front axle or a soft on the rear axle, but these options aren't good as a pair of mediums.
Front pre-load needs to be low at 2 to allow for more consistent steering around the long corners in the Sachsenring. Oil quality should be at 3, with the front spring hardness up at 4.
The front fork compression is best at 4, as with the extension of the fork also at 4.
On the rear, the rear pre-load has to go all the way up to 7 with the Swingarm connector at 4. Spring hardness should be up at 5, but the shock absorber compression should be down at 3. The extension should be at 4 to help the bike's overall grip.
For your Vehicle Geometry, the steering head inclination should be down at 1 to allow for more responsive steering. This is a must for the twisty first sector.
The trail also should be down at 1, but the steering plate needs to be up at 3. Lastly, the rear swingarm length needs to be up at 5.
Your gears in Germany should be slightly below the default values, with the exception of the first gear. This is due to the slow corners not being too slow and this makes for better acceleration out of them.
The pit and back straights, though, mean that you need to have a top gear ratio of 6. The slipper clutch should be around 4, though, to help the bike's stability.
In Germany, there aren't too many long braking zones. However, there are multiple smaller zones in quick succession, so you'll need powerful brakes here.
A 340mm high mass brake on the front and a 220mm on the rear are the best options here.
As usual, electronic aids that are available to you in MotoGP definitely come in handy here. You'll need to turn all of them up quite high to keep your bike on the road. Traction Control needs to be up at 4 though, as there aren't many major acceleration zones.
Engine Braking should be up at 3 in order to shave speed around the long corners. Anti-wheelie also has to be up at 4 to prevent the front wheel from flying off the ground when getting on the power.
Power mapping is best at 3 for a flying lap, but you'll need to turn this around during some points in the race. This is to save the engine and fuel.
All of these can be adjusted out on track using the HUD in the bottom-right of the screen.
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