F1 23 is here at last and you'll be able to continue your mid-season European tour in style thanks to this F1 23 Singapore setup. There's a slight change to the final sector of the layout for 2023.
Codemasters has made radical handling changes that have altered how you need to drive to be fast, though. Codies has widened the setup options this year too, so applying your F1 22 setups won't work.
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Here's the best F1 23 Singapore Grand Prix setup in the game, as well as some adjustments you can make to tailor it specifically to your driving style.
F1 23 Singapore setup
Marina Bay Street Circuit is one of the toughest tracks on the F1 calendar. At two-hours, it's the longest in terms of time and unforgiving walls line the outside of the entire circuit.
Passing is very tough here, with the main spots being into Turns 7 and 14. High downforce is the only way you can go here, as high wing angles are required to generate the grip to be fast around the mostly 90-degree corners.
Singapore isn't too hard on the tyres thanks to its low average speed, but the rears can need to withstand some wear due to the multiple big traction zones. The fast corners can also scrape the fronts if you take them too quickly too.
Aerodynamics
Downforce is king in Singapore, so your wing angles should be very high by F1 23 standards. 50-50 gives you plenty of downforce while not impacting your top speed too much.

You could decrease these values a little to help you down the back straights. However, it will mean you're slower through the corners, so it's not worth it. Although, this will make it slightly easier to pass.
Transmission
The transmission sets how the rear wheels rotate in relation to each other and this is the case for when you're both off and on the throttle. Your tyres will rotate in a more uniform fashion than when the differential is more closed.

F1 23 appears to have a “meta” early on in its life cycle. This can change due to updates and patches, but for now, we’ve gone with the usual 55% on-throttle diff and 53% off-throttle diff.
This allows for good rotation both on and off the throttle. That said, if the car is a bit too loose on throttle then try turning the off-throttle diff up to 54% or 55%.
Suspension geometry
Despite the changes to handling, the meta for suspension geometry hasn’t changed from F1 22. If it ain't broke, there's no reason to fix these settings.

Maximum camber values and minimum toe settings are best in Singapore. That's -2.50, -1.00, 0.00, and 0.10. This will give you loads of grip and won't impact your tyre life.
Suspension
The suspension has been unlocked in a similar way to which aero got last year. There is a much wider range of settings to pick from for the suspension, but the overall philosophy here is pretty much the same as last year.

We’ve gone for 32-10 on the suspension and 4-1 for the anti-roll bar. This gives good turn in for the slow speed corners, but plenty of stability to get back on the power without losing the rear.
If you do feel the rear sliding as you exit corners, though, add a click or two to the rear suspension and anti-roll bars. If the front is too oversteery, lower the front suspension a little.
Ride height is set to 35-38, a bit above the lowest it can go. This produces a lot of grip through the corners without creating much drag down the straights.
While this is the optimal setting, if you're on simulation levels of damage and take too much kerb it can cause damage to your floor, so be careful.
If you are struggling to stay consistently between the white lines, then up the front ride height a little to around 36 or 37 to protect yourself from race-ruining damage.
Brakes
Braking has changed a lot in F1 23, but the best settings haven’t. 100% brake pressure is still ideal, while 55% brake bias is a good balance between front and rear for Singapore.

It's easier to lock up in F1 23, so if you aren’t using ABS, and find this is happening too often, then reduce the brake pressure. You may also need to move your braking point back a little.
Tyres
The Pirelli rubber hasn’t changed much for F1 23, though the pressure settings are broader this year.

We have gone with near the minimum pressures across the board for this setup. So, that's 22.5-20.2 psi on the front/rear. This will help keep the tyres in good shape through the race, though you may need to do a little more warm-up on an out-lap and the formation lap.
Adjustments
These setups are intended for intermediate players who may still be using assists like traction control and ABS. However, if you are looking for an extra edge then you can try a few of these adjustments:
- Decrease the wing levels by 1-3 clicks to improve top speed
- This will make the car less capable on turn-in and less stable in high-speed direction changes
- If the car doesn't feel like it is doing what you want on turn-in then raise the front wing a click or two
- If the car is too loose at low speeds try moving the off-throttle differential up a point or two for more stability
- For a more "pointy" car stiffen the front suspension & anti-roll bar in relation to the rear
- This will make getting traction trickier
- Don't be afraid to move brake bias during the lap. More frontward will give better performance in heavy braking zones, and a rearward for lighter braking zones
- Lockups are easier to achieve in F1 23 than previous games. Front locking is less catastrophic than rear locking, and which way you go from our mark will increase your chances of a lockup in that direction
- Add a click of tyre pressure for short online races to improve tyre warm-up!
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