Despite it being out for almost a year now, MotoGP 20 is still one of the best motorcycle games on the market. In the lead up to MotoGP 21, we're providing you with setup guides for every circuit in MotoGP 20.
After a hiatus of almost 40 years, the Finnish Motorcycle GP was set to make its return to MotoGP last year. Unfortunately, the event was postponed until 2021, but MotoGP 20 players have had ample time to learn the KymiRing.
The KymiRing is a brand-new circuit and one that is designed to be difficult to drive. Therefore, your setup is absolutely vital to a quick lap time in Finland.
Your tyre choice in Finland is one of the few on the calendar which warrants soft tyres on both the front and rear of the bike.
The KymiRing's new surface is billiard table smooth, so tyre wear is not an issue around here. Soft tyres provide the most grip and are usually only good in qualifying.
READ MORE: MotoGP 21 Tracks: Full Circuit list
Around the KymiRing, though, they can last the race distance with minimum tyre conservation efforts.
The front preload value for the suspension needs to be turned all the way up to 10, with the rear being down at 2.
This will allow for maximum overall grip from the bike and make it lean less. You can't be quick with a bike that leans a lot at the KymiRing, as this will end with you falling off the seat more times than you can count.
The fork settings need to follow a similar trend, as to not upset the balance of the bike. 8 for rebound is as high as you can go, with 3 compression being optimum.
This will make the springs have a small amount of damping, which allows for more responsive cornering. You can go higher for these settings if you wish, although it will make the bike more unstable.
Shock absorbers have to also follow suit with high rebound and low compression. 8 for the rebound and 3 for compression is ideal. You'll need to use the kerbs here, but you've got to be careful, as the grass and gravel is waiting to swallow you up.
Finally, the springs should be on the low side for stiffness. You could go lower than 3 on the front or rear, but it will make the bike less stable and more likely to throw you off.
Like at many of the circuits on the calendar, the steering head inclination must be low for the Kymiring. You need to go all the way down to 0 for maximum responsiveness.
Conversely, the trail should be set to around 7. This will make the ride more stable, particularly at the rear when mid-corner. This doesn't hurt your turn-in much, as this is for the rear axle.
Your gears need to be set on the high side in Finland to be fast, but there are some exceptions to this rule.
Notably, gears 1 and six must be on the low side of their available ratios to aid acceleration out of slow and high-speed turns.
For the rest of the gearbox, the ratios need to be high (between 7 and 10) to allow for maximum top speed.
The standard values of 340 mm on the front and 220 mm of brakes on the rear shouldn't be altered for the Kymiring.
You will need that stopping power into the big braking zone of Turn 4. Bigger brakes may add weight, but will allow you to make some very daring overtakes and prevent overheating through the final sectors.
READ MORE: MotoGP 21: Will it come to Xbox Series X?
The Kymiring is a brand-new track, and as such, you won't need to use the electronic aids as much as at other circuits.
Traction Control has should be at 3. There aren't too many big traction zones here, but you'll often be accelerating while steering during the final two sectors. You could turn this down to 2, if you're gentle on the throttle.
Engine braking needs to be all the way up to 4. This is to help lose speed through the slowly tightening corners of the final two sectors.
If you feel like you're losing too much speed through the long corners, turn this value down.
READ MORE: MotoGP 21 Editions: Early Access & more
Anti-wheelie aid should be around 2, your bike doesn't try and fly up in the air as often as some tracks. This is thanks to the flat nature of the Kymiring. You can even go down to 1, if you fancy it.
Power should be up to 2 for the straights in the race and qualifying. All of the ECU settings can be adjusted on-track and during the race, so feel free to alter these as your race progresses.
For more articles like this, take a look at our MotoGP page.