If you're new to the world of Formula 1 games, these F1 24 setups will help you get the most from Codemasters' game. Default setups on the F1 cars are full of understeer and very hard to drive on the absolute edge.
With our custom F1 24 setups you will be able to get more ultimate speed from the car, but also be able to feel the grip and push to the limit with more confidence.
Codemasters has added more customization options than ever before this year. So we will also explain every option to you.
Best F1 24 setups for every circuit
If you are just looking for the best setup, you can find our track-specific settings listed below.
However, if you want to learn more about the nuances if each option and gain the confidence to make adjustments based on your driving style, keep scrolling for all the information.
- Bahrain setup
- Saudi Arabia setup
- Australia setup
- Japan setup
- China setup
- Miami setup
- Imola setup
- Monaco setup
- Canada setup
- Spain setup
- Austria setup
- Great Britain setup
- Hungary setup
- Belgium setup
- Netherlands setup
- Italy setup
- Azerbaijan setup
- Singapore setup
- USA setup
- Mexico setup
- Brazil setup
- Las Vegas setup
- Qatar setup
- Abu Dhabi setup
- Portugal setup
Aerodynamics
Aerodynamics is the main contributor to the car's downforce. The front and rear wings are fine-tuned to allow air to pass over the car in very specific ways.
A higher win setup will keep the car pinned to the track when cornering, but at the cost of straight-line speed. On the other hand, lower wings will make the car more slippery on the straights but harder to corner.
Transmission
The main area of the transmission is the differential. This controls how the wheels spin in relation to one another, both when throttling and when coasting.
A fully locked (so 100%) on-throttle differential keeps both rear wheels spinning at the same rate when the throttle is engaged. A more unlocked differential sacrifices traction on exit for stability and performance in the corner. Most players will prefer a slightly unlocked on-throttle differential.
The off-throttle differential dictates how freely the wheels spin when you are not on the throttle, which will only be in the braking zones, and is closely tied to the newest setup option, engine braking.
More engine breaking means your car slows down faster, charges the ERS faster, but has more oversteer. The "meta" for F1 24 is to max out the engine breaking as ERS is such a powerful tool. To off-set the oversteer this creates you'll want to run a slightly higher off-throttle differential.
Suspension geometry
This area of the setup allows you to dictate how the tyres make contact with the tarmac. This can be achieved by adjusting the camber and toe of the front and rear wheels.
Camber is used to change the grip levels on both the straights and when cornering. This is shown by the angle of the wheel relative to the vertical plane of the car. In F1, nearly all camber setups are negative, where the top of the tyre leans in towards the car.
The toe changes the wheel's angle on the horizontal plane. It also generates heat in the rubber, maximizing grip in the corners.
Suspension
This is the largest area of the setup, focusing on how the car interacts with the track. This includes how low or high it sits relative to the tarmac, as well as how the car responds to any bumps and curbs.
Stiff suspension settings react more to bumps and kerbs, and are harder on the tyres while softer settings ride easier on the bumps but aggressive changes in speed can overload the springs and create stability issues.
For F1 24 a stiff front and soft rear is favorable for most tracks.
The anti-roll bars affect the cars during cornering. Stiff anti-roll bars are better for responsiveness, while soft allows for more overall traction. Stiff bars are generally prefered in F1 24 as there is already plenty of traction.
Finally, the ride height dictates how high or low the car is positioned above the track. You want the car to be as low as possible to reduce unnecessary drag, but this puts the car at risk of bottoming out on long straights or becoming grounded on curbs.
The ride height can be combined with the aerodynamic setup to create an optimized downforce setup.
Brakes
There are two brake settings. First, the brake pressure determines the car's braking potential. A higher setting provides more braking power, while a lower setting reduces the braking available. If you run with ABS off, then higher brake pressure increases the risk of lockups.
The brake bias determines if the front or rear brakes are doing the majority of the stopping. 55-56% is a good spot for nearly all tracks. If you find you are locking up in a lot of corners then you can move it rearward a click, but front locking is better than rear locking!
Tyres
The final section of the setup changes the tyres' performance. Lower tyre pressure increases the contact patch between the wheel and the track, maximizing traction.
A higher pressure decreases drag but at the cost of temperature and, because of that, performance.
Now we know how each area of the setup affects the car, let's look at the best setup for each circuit.